Climbing in Austin, TX
Enchanted Rock
Most people are surprised to hear that we climb in Austin. — “There’s no mountains there!”
That’s true.
But—there are short bouldery limestone cliffs and a big granite dome!
Enchanted Rock (~100 mi. West of Austin)
Located near Fredericksburg, TX just an hour and a half from Austin, Enchanted rock offers the best trad climbing in central Texas. Enchanted Rock is a large, pink granite exfoliation dome in the middle of Texas “wine country”. It’s best to visit in cooler temps— once the sun comes up, it gets hot!
Kate after running it out on pink Texas granite. Notice how the cracks form as large slabs exfoliate off the dome.
“The Greenbelt” (<1 mi. from downtown)”
Barton Creek Greenbelt
The green belt is a 7 mile long trail popular with hikers, mountain bikers, families, and folks looking to party by the water. Also a convenient and *free* venue for sport climbing and a bit of bouldering.
Many of the popular, low grade routes have become polished
Reimer’s Ranch (~30 mi. from downtown)
The crown jewel of Texas sport climbing, and the outdoor epicenter of Austin’s predominately indoor climbing scene. Its location at the edge of the Texas Hill Country makes it the perfect addition to any day trip to the wineries and breweries nearby.
“Reimers”
Called “Reimers” by locals, it was a gift to county by the family of Milton Riemer the previous owner. When Milton and his wife “name?” owned it, access was $5 left in the mailbox and the only instructions were “no hunting, no drinking, no teenage parties”. It was developed in the late 80’s and early 90’s by the original Austin hardmen and women. Sex Cave and Sex Canyon quickly became a place of aspiration for the burgeoning sport climbing scene home to classics like “Liposuction” (5.12a), “Dark Energy” (5.12c?), and “Sangre de Muertos” (5.11c?).
“North Shore”
Reimer’s Ranch North Bank area is home to newer less trafficked routes and features a wide range of grades in Reimer’s signature bouldery style. It stays wetter, but if you happen to visit in those rare dry cool weeks in November you’re in for a treat. Mossy Wall is home to arguably the best collection intermediate/advanced lines (5.11a/b-5.12d) in Texas with a quality line at each grade. Many Austin climbers use this laboratory to train and progress for trips farther afield. Mellower lines abound, and there is even a bolted roof called Awesome Roof to hide you from the blazing Texas heat!
Georgetown (~30 mi. north of Downtown)
A small secluded crag located near the St. David’s Hospital in Georgetown, Texas. Mountain project lists 29 climbs including sport, boulders, and top rope. The ‘Toproping slab’ is on the backside of a large boulder as you enter the crag area and we found this spot to be particularly useful for continuous climbing exercises. Mountain project lists it as 5.6 but there are several anchors at the top and you climb your own route to make it as easy or difficult as you choose. If you make the drive north, visit the charming downtown square with wineries, shops, and restaurants— or the blue hole for a swim.
Pace bend
Pace Bend is best known for deep water solo. Its located in Spicewood, Texas and is popular for camping, hiking, boating and swimming. Recent years with high temps and low rain fall have made for very short or non existent seasons, but it’s worth the drive when it goes!